Diving in Lake Malawi, one of the best freshwater diving spots in the world
As the sun sets over the glittering surface of Lake Malawi, three divers emerge near the rocky outcrop on Masimbwe Island, a dive site off Likoma Island in Lake Malawi. Filled with excitement, they return to the boat, remove their gear, and talk about the fish they saw on the short trip back to shore. With pristine white sand beaches and pure blue water stretching as far as the eye can see, you continually remind yourself that you are not diving in the Caribbean, but in the third largest lake in Africa. Along with over 1000 different species of cichlid fish, as well as catfish and even otters, it’s no wonder that Lake Malawi has been cited as one of the best freshwater diving spots in the world.
Malawi is a landlocked country in the Southern Africa Region and borders Tanzania to the north, Zambia to the west, and Mozambique to the east and south. The landscape is dominated along its eastern side by the third largest lake in Africa and the ninth largest in the world. Lake Malawi is known as the Lake of Stars, due to its impressive ability to reflect the constellations of stars at night in its crystal clear fresh waters. The lake is of great importance to the country, not only as a means of transportation, but also as a source of both food and water. As a diver, its importance lies in its remarkable abundance of different species of fish, making it the most biologically diverse freshwater environment in the world.
Lake Malawi contains a greater variety of indigenous species (about 1000) of cichlid fish than any other lake. Researchers have identified more than 500 species to date that are endemic to Lake Malawi, which is more than all the freshwater species found in all the waters of Europe and North America. Lake Malawi cichlids, perhaps even more so than cichlids from the other two rift lakes, Victoria and Tanganyika, are brightly colored and patterned. Cichlids have evolved from a single species common to the hundreds found today, coexisting within the lake’s ecosystem. Variable species have developed differential feeding techniques to maximize productivity. Some species have developed teeth specialized in scraping algae from rocks or aquatic plants. Others use a sand filtration technique to sift aquatic animals or invertebrates from the sand. There are also species specialized in the consumption of snails, plants and fish.
One of the most fascinating phenomena observed on dives is the protective nature of mouth breeders, made famous in the BBC documentary series ‘Planet Earth’. Lake Malawi cichlids are among a relatively small number of fish that care for and protect their young. The mothers carry their eggs and deep-fry them until the juveniles are large enough to fend for themselves. Even at this stage, in many species, the fry remain close to their mother in a narrow school when at the first sign of predatory danger, she opens her mouth and the entire young are captured for safety. In the case of many of the mouth breeders, the males do not exhibit any parental care; after spawning, they continue to find another female. Divers can often see males dig large spawning pits, large round craters, in the sand at water depths of around 2 to 20 meters (6 to 65 feet), to attract more females.
Other species in Lake Malawi have developed some very unique hunting adaptations, which make them fun to watch while diving. At least two species lure small fish within range by feigning death and lying motionless in the sand! These have been given the nickname “The Dead Fish.” One of the largest fish that can be seen while diving is the Kampango. Growing up to 2 m in length, the Kampango is a large, territorial and predatory catfish endemic to Lake Malawi, found from the lower reaches of rivers to the deepest habitable parts of the lake. A nocturnal predator, it feeds mainly on smaller cichlids. The juveniles feed primarily on the eggs released by the female, and when they are slightly older, the male helps the young to search for invertebrates in and around the nesting site, which both parents will defend. If you are lucky enough to find a catfish pair with babies, you will see perfectly formed miniature catfish, up to 80 of them in a nest! The Kampango is curious and will approach several that enter its territory, particularly when they breed.
Lake Malawi is a freshwater environment; as a result, there is no coral growth on the reefs. However, that does not mean that there is no plant life. Lake Malawi has an endemic genus and species of freshwater sponge, Malawispongia echinoides. This little colonial animal is found nowhere else in the world.
About a third of the lake shoreline is rocky, home to vegetarian cichlids, the Mbuna, as well as the occasional freshwater eel. These underwater rock formations are impressive dive sites that include countless swimming steps and drop walls. The rest of the coastline is characterized by sandy beaches and seabeds. This is where most open-water piscivores (eat other fish), called Haps, live. Some species of cichlids inhabit the muddy, overgrown bottom where the larger rivers flow into the lake.
Lake Malawi is unusual in that it does not have significantly strong tides or currents, making it a perfect environment for open water training. Diving is possible all year round. However, between August and November, the lake is at its calmest, with very little wind. The water temperature can rise up to 30 degrees Celsius during this time, with a visibility of up to 20 meters. Under these conditions, 3-5mm wetsuits with little to no ballast system are perfectly adequate in this freshwater paradise. Since Lake Malawi is almost 500 m above sea level, special procedures are required for diving at altitude.
Without a doubt, night diving is considered a unique experience on the lake. Dolphin fish, which look nothing like their name, can be seen using the light of divers’ torches to facilitate an easy meal. Numerous different catfish can also be seen rising from the depths of their daytime dens in search of food. In the shallower waters, large numbers of blue crabs can be found on the sandy bottom, while a keen eye can spot small freshwater shrimp located in and around rocky rocks.
For those days when many prefer to stay on the surface, there is always something to do at Lake Malawi. Kaya Mawa, an award-winning lodge on Likoma Island, offers activities for its guests, such as sailing, kayaks, bicycles, waterskiing and wakeboarding, island boat tours, and quad biking tours. For the 2012 season, Malawi’s first kitesurfing school has also been opened. For those interested in bird watching, Lake Malawi is a paradise for hundreds of species. If you’re lucky, you might see the crimson rump wax beak, found only on Likoma Island, or the majestic osprey swooping down to catch its prey.
There are several international airlines flying to Malawi, including South African Airways, Kenyan Airways, Air Malawi, and Ethiopian Airways. Internal transport is possible by bus, taxi, rental car, internal flight companies (Ulendo Airlink) and the Ilala ferry, which runs a continuous route around the lake.